Kusum Kangru (6,367m/20,888ft)
Elevation: 6367m.
Region: Everest
The route: Kathamndu-Lukla-KBC
Best Season: Sept. to Nov.& April to May.
Facility: Teahouse and Camping.
Program duration: 19 days
Kusum Kangru is one of the first "real" mountains, which can be seen on the Jiri - Everest BC trek is a complex mountain with 3 summits. It has at least 5 major steep and razor-sharp ridges and as many faces and this peak known as 6 th highest peak among trekking peak in Nepal. Its' name originating in Sherpa language means the Three Snow-White Gods. This climb is suggested only for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience.
Of all of the trekking peaks in Nepal, this one has the reputation for being the most difficult trekking peak in the Everest region. The climbing is technically difficult, requiring a high degree of experience and commitment with serious climbing skills. While many of Nepal's peaks are good for well-led groups with limited experience but this mountain is not. While there are a number of different routes to the summit, the upper third of the mountain tends to be 70 to 80 degree ice, snow and rock. Many try, few make it. Kusum Kangru repelled four attempts before a Japanese party made the first ascent. A number of different routes have subsequently been made; among them the E-face none of these could be considered easy.
North Ridge:
The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grass and screed and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.
South-East Ridge: The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base cam at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb. |