Baruntse is one of the beautiful 7,000m snow peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. It is also one of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success of ascent on normal route. The approach to the mountain follows the Mera Peak trek up to Mera La and then to Baruntse base camp. (5,250m).
This Baruntse can be climb through Arun valley to Makalu Base camp as well. The south -East Ridge of Baruntse it is little bit difficult because of being straightforward hard ways to climb. There are hard sections of 50 Degree's elevation with a prominent ice cliff to be climbed facing the risk of avalanche. The climbers have succeeded the mountain mostly in the spring season because of being the season the best to the climber safety. But also some climbers have reached on it's top in the autumn season as well. Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in climbing Baruntse. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South – East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the South – East Ridge. We then move through steeping slopes of the ridge to a small col, the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m. From camp II, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we past through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m, the summit. The descend is by the same route.
Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in climbing Baruntse. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South - East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the South - East Ridge. We then move through steeping slopes of the ridge to a small col, the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m. From camp II, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we past through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m, the summit. The descend is by the same route.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 2: At leisure in Kathmandu.
Expedition preparation in Kathmandu and city sightseeing. Overnight in the Hotel.
Day 3: Fly to Tumlingtar.
We leave very early for the airport to catch our domestic flight to the airstrip at Tumlingtar, which takes about 50 minutes. On arrival, we meet our Sherpa crew and the local porters who will carry the main expedition stores all the way to base camp. We set off after a light lunch for the first part of our trek. Traveling eastwards at first, the trail climbs to reach Khandbari where our permits are checked for entry to the park. We continue walking and camp overnight in Manebhanjang (1,040 meters). 3 hours.
Day 4: Trek to Chichira (2,000 meters).
Leaving our overnight camp, we continue on well-traveled paths to the village of Botebas (1,740 meters), where teahouses provide a welcome stop amid the smiling children that gather to entice us to part with "one rupee, one rupee". 9 hours.
Day 5: Trek to Num (1,560 meters).
Beyond Chichira, the cultivated fields begin to dwindle and the scenery of Chamlang and Makalu comes in to view. We now descend towards the Arun River and drop down through Mure to reach our overnight stop at Num. 7 hours.
Day 6: Trek to Runruma (1,730 meters).
From our campsite, the trail continues to drop even further to cross the Arun River at only 660 meters (and Everest at 8,848 meters is less than 60 Kilometers away!) Once across the river, the trail climbs steeply following a rocky track to Runruma where we spend the night. 5 hours.
Day 7: Trek to Tashigoan (2,200 meters).
Following terraced fields and walking through meadows, we arrive at the Sherpa Village of Tashigoan after approximately 5 hours.
Day 8: Trek to Kaurna (3,620 meters). Today is a hard day, as we have to make just over 1,400 meters of ascent. We start early to allow the porters plenty of time to make the journey, although the hills barely seem to slow their relentless and determined rhythm. While it might not ease their burden, it would cheer them to share a smile as we pass by or, even better, to share cup of tea if we catch them at a rest stop. We can expect to walk for 7 hours today.
Day 9: Acclimatization day.
Day 10: Shipton Pass (4,250 meters).
Cross the Shipton Pass (4,250 meters) to Mumbuk (3,630 meters). Moving on after a pleasant day's rest, we climb steeply through rhododendron to emerge on ridge tops and a pass strewn with Mani Walls and prayer flags. The labour of climbing up to the pass is rewarded with fine views of Kanchenjunga to the east and of Makalu. We descend quickly on the far side of Shipton Pass to reach Mumbuk, where we camp in the forest. 6 hours.
Day 11: Trek to Jark Kharka (4,180 meters).
The trail becomes markedly rugged today, as we descend through steep gullies to emerge in the Barun Valley. The trail is poorly defined in places and alternates between rock and mud. Just beyond Tematan Kharka, we cross to the north bank of the Barun Khola before arriving at our camp after about 8 hours.
Day 12: Acclimatization / rest day.
We climb a nearby ridge (4,900 meters) and enjoy spectacular views of the surrounding area.
Day 13: Trek to Sherson (4,600 meters).
The valley is broader now and affords great views all around. We walk among birch and scrub rhododendron until we leave the forest and arrive in the true alpine zone, with moraines forged by the Barun Glacier in evidence. As we arrive in Shershon, the South Face of Makalu pops in to sharp focus. 5 hours.
Day 14: Trek to below "Sherpani Col" (5,180 meters).
The fresh mountain air is invigorating as we awake to a day that leads to the heart of the Great Himalaya. As we follow the glacier, each step seems to alter the facet of every mountain that looms ahead. As we continue the walk to Makalu base camp (4,860 meters), the panorama becomes more staggering as the vista is enhanced by wonderful views of Everest, Lhotse and our own objective Baruntse. It's no surprise that Hillary and Lowe felt compelled to return here after their reconnaissance with Shipton, to climb among these giants. We arrive just below "Sherpini Col" after about 7 hours of walking.
Day 15: Baruntse base camp (5,550m).
Up the Barun Glacier to Baruntse base camp (5,550 meters). We follow the true right bank of the glacier, among moraines to the site of Baruntse base camp, which is about 4 ½ kilometers further on. This camp is located on a small shelf at the foot of the valley that we follow westwards to East Col. There is a stream nearby which flows from the glacier. We only stay at Baruntse base camp for a couple of days, resting and practicing rope work on the route up to East Col. 5 hours.
Day 16-25: The Climb.
We establish 2 camps above Baruntse base camp. The first (ABC) is placed on the flat expanses of the glacier and at the foot of the South East Ridge, at an altitude of 6,000 meters. In effect, this is our launch pad from which we set about climbing the mountain. Camp (C1) is on the South-East Ridge proper at a height of 6,450 meters. From this camp, we climb to the summit.
We have allowed plenty of time for the ascent in order to provide for additional acclimatization and for some load carrying to stock ABC and Camp 1. With Sherpa support, the requirement for load carrying is kept to a minimum. It is important that everyone is well rested before going for the top in order to maximize everyone's chances of summiting.
Having rested at Baruntse base camp, we cross the East Col (6,050m) and set up ABC. Our porters traverse across the glacier and descend the West Col to the Hongu valley to wait for us. We spend the next few days making acclimatization climbs to C1 and then resting at ABC. The climb from ABC to C1 follows steepening slopes to a small Col and the site of C1 at 6,450 meters (4 hours).
Above C1, we climb 45° snow slopes past a subsidiary summit at 6,745 meters from where the route becomes more involved. A series of short, steep steps of snow and ice are gained until we pass onto the west side of the ridge. Some short sections of rock scrambling lead back onto the ridge until it narrows at about 7,000 meters. This leads to a marked cleft and an ice cliff, which is surmounted to give access to easier, broader slopes above. These lead to the summit at 7,129 meters. (Approx 10 hours of ascent). Descent is by the same route (sleeping at C1 and ABC).
Day 26: Depart ABC, descend West Col.
The main expedition group packs up and leaves ABC, crossing the West Col to rendezvous with our porters at the head of the Hongu Valley.
Day 27: Trek to Kongme Dingma (4,919m).
Walking due south, we trek to Kongme Dingma (4,919 meters). The trek down the Hongu Valley is very pleasant in a wide-open valley. To our backs, high over the top of the Amphu Labtsa, is the mighty South Face of Lhotse, which will force us, Medusa like, to gaze over our shoulders time and again. The walking in the Hongu is easy, as the paths are broad and sandy. There are many nice places to camp on level areas of grass with rivers ever present to provide plenty of water - the well hardened might even take to having a wash. (8 hours).
Day 28: Mera La (5,400m) or ascent of Mera Peak (6,476m).
We gain height today and travel westwards as we climb up to the glacier covered Mera La. (Those members of the team who want to climb Mera Peak can do so today or tomorrow, before catching the rest of the group up at Tangnag). From the Mera La, we descend the Mera Glacier to arrive at Khare in the late afternoon. (9 hours).
Day 29: Trek to Tangnag (4,360m).
Leaving Khare, we have a short day, to arrive in Tangnag after 2 hours where we rest for the remainder of the day.
Day 30: Trek to Kharte.
We follow the Hinku Valley as it swings south, for several kilometers before breaking off to follow a trail that gains height on the valley's western slopes. We camp overnight below the Zatrwala Pass at Kharte. (5 hours).
Day 31: Zatrwala La (4,600m).We wake up for an early start to gain the remaining height to the pass. The ground is steep here but a well-worn sandy path leads easily to the summit (although this can be a tricky section if there is unseasonable snow cover). Leaving the top of the pass, a steep descent leads down rapidly into dense forest. Camp. (7 hours). Day 32: Trek to Lukla (2,800m).
We follow our noses to arrive in the busy town of Lukla, the epicenter of trekking in the Khumbu. We settle into one of the better lodges for a welcome night, no longer under canvass. (7 hours).
Day 33: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.
Transfer to the welcome delights of the Summit Hotel. In the evening, we celebrate the success of the expedition.
Day 34: At leisure in Kathmandu, evening farewell dinner overnight at Kathmandu.
Day 35: Departure, Transfer to Airport flight onward.
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